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澳洲吃货扫食上海路边摊 (上)
一对喜欢旅行的悉尼吃货,超级喜欢路边小店和各国神秘的食物。“路边摊”(主要)是个关于亚洲饮食,便宜食物指南和颂扬悉尼饮食缺陷的博客。路边摊系列上海篇第一部分。
原帖链接:http://www.streetfood.com.au/2012/01/shanghai-china-2012-tour-part-1.html
前言:
Street Food
路边摊
A Sydney food blog by two travel nerds obsessed with travel food, hole-in-the-wall restaurants, and international supermarkets of mystery. Street Food is a (mostly) Asian food blog, a cheap eats guide, and a celebration of Sydney's great culinary underbelly.
一对喜欢旅行的悉尼吃货,超级喜欢路边小店和各国神秘的食物。“路边摊”(主要)是个关于亚洲饮食,便宜食物指南和颂扬悉尼饮食缺陷的博客。





China Tour ~ Shanghai - Part 1
中国之旅~上海-第一部分

Our bellies do flip-flops as we rocket into Shanghai from the airport. And it's not because the train is doing over 300kmh (seriously). It's because we're in freaking China! China and it's five zillion year culinary history has directly influenced all the Asian cuisines we love so much. Even though we're a pair of skippy non-Asian Australians, we feel like we're coming home to the motherland.
当我们从机场那边冲入上海时,我们的胃翻江倒海。这不是因为高铁在以300kmh(说真的)的速度疾驰着,而是因为我们现在就在中国!!中国和她5千年的饮食文化直接影响了我们所喜欢的全部亚洲美食。即使我们只是一对啥都不知道的非亚裔澳大利亚人,我们仍然感觉我们回了老家。
原创翻译:龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.com 翻译:xml289 转载请注明出处


We get off the train in Shanghai to discover that we can't escape Christmas, even in China. We're a bit lost and some random stranger sees us struggling with a map and helps us find our way to our hostel. What a nice bloke, and what a nice welcome to China. Chinese folks we know back in Sydney were convinced we would be mugged, extorted, poisoned and possibly eaten as we backpacked China. But within five minutes of the holiday we've already had the exact opposite experience, and continued to do so throughout out the trip. Folks were super nice and helpful and we always felt at ease. Though once Shawn was slightly molested on the bottom, unfortunately by a bloke, but that happens to him all over Asia. Nothing so exciting happens back at home.
我们从高铁上下来之后发现即使在中国,我们还是逃不掉圣诞节 。我们有一点迷路了,一个路上的陌生人看见我们手足无措地看着地图,他帮我们找到了去青年旅社的路。真是个好人,真是中国对我们友好的欢迎。我们在悉尼认识的中国人都坚信我们在中国背包旅行一定会被骚扰,敲诈,中毒甚至被吃掉。但是在我们假期开始的5分钟内,我们就已经有了一个完全相反的体验,在接下来的一路上这个感觉都一直伴随着我们。中国人超级友好和乐于助人,我们总是感到很安心。即使有一次Shawn的屁股轻微的被人捏了,不幸的还是个男人捏的,但是他在亚洲总是遭遇这样的事情。在澳大利亚从来没有这样刺激的经历。



We're superstitious about the first meal of the holiday: it sets the standard for the rest of the trip. We could have eaten at one of the dozen too-tidy looking primary coloured Japanese/Taiwanese/Hong Kong style chain joints as we left the subway. But we held out until we found this: northern style cumin lamb kebabs cooked on hot coals and served in fresh flat bread. This is the last thing we were expecting and the best thing to find as the temperature was dropping down towards freezing. We paid 15 yuan, less then $3 Aussie. This is going to be a good trip.
我们对于假期的第一餐是很迷信的:它给我们整个旅程的欢乐程度定调。我们可以在离开地铁之后在那一堆色彩鲜明的日本/台湾/香港主题连锁店里挑一家吃 ,但是我们坚持着直到我们发现了这个:北方风格的用煤烤的茴 香羊肉串,夹现做的饼。这根本不在我们的预期之中,但这却是这个几乎零度的天气之下最好的食物。我们付了15元,不到3澳元。这个旅程将会很愉快。



This setup is permanently affixed outside a Northern style halal restaurant. We guess it keeps the smoke out of the restaurant, saves space and catches extra takeway business.
这个摊位固定在一个北方风格清真餐馆外。我们猜这个装置排出餐馆的烟,省空间还可以提供一个额外的外卖服务。



We wander around a little more and find some street hawkers selling bbq skewers and noodles.
我们到处走了一下,发现了一些街边小摊卖烤串和面条。
原创翻译:龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.com 翻译:xml289 转载请注明出处


This simple noodle stir fry was devine, made by a one-dish master. Our thick egg noodles were mixed with egg, bean sprouts, chili, green veggies and a bit of salt. We go back to our hostel to learn that Kim Jong Ill just died, Chinese TV said he was a real swell guy who expressed some interest in economic reforms.
这个简单的炒面是神级的,一个大厨烧出来的。我们厚鸡蛋面条加了鸡蛋,豆芽,辣椒,蔬菜和一点点盐。当我们回到青年旅馆时候,发现金日成死了,中国电视上说他是个胖胖的家伙曾经表达过进行经济改革的想法。



We awake to find we're staying in pleasant neighbourhood with relatively calm, tree-lined streets. We were near the French Concession, on the Ji'an Temple side.
我们发现我们在一个令人愉快的地方醒来,清净,路边覆盖着树的街道。我们在法租界,靠静安庙的那边。



For breakfast we judiciously pick the first place we find, and it's a beauty.
对于早饭,我们决定选我们能找到的第一家店。真的英明的决定。



We figure this is a real Shanghai style joint, the trays of ready-to-go dishes remind us of the Shanghai joints back in Ashfield in Sydney. The restaurant is squeaky clean and served by a cheery army of aunties and uncles. They weren't sure about us the first visit but on the second visit we were greeted like long lost relatives.
我们估计这是一家真正上海风格的餐馆,一盘盘的熟食让我们想起在悉尼艾士非的上海小店。这家店超级干净,一群开心的阿姨和叔叔们在这里工作。我们第一次来的时候他们对我们不是很熟悉,而当我们第二次走进来时,我们就像他们长期失散的亲戚一样的被欢迎了。



We want to transport ourselves back and dive into the bainmarie of love. Lonely Planet tells you never to eat pre-prepared food, which would mean missing out on the best stuff. The trick is to find it fresh, that's usually when it's crowded with locals.
我们想穿越回那家店并浸泡在充满食物之爱的温泉之中。《孤独星球》告诉我们说千万不要尝试事先烧好的食物,这意味着我们就会错过这个好地方了。诀窍是要找到新鲜的餐馆,而这通常意味着当地人拍长龙的地方。



We could spend half our trip in here.
我们可以在这里度过一半的假期。



If any germs make it through the hygienically sealed chopsticks the fiery chili paste should kill them.
即使是有病菌残留在这些密封的一次性筷子里,这超辣的辣椒酱也会杀死它们的。
原创翻译:龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.com 翻译:xml289 转载请注明出处


There's no finer breakfast than noodle soup, especially when there's a pork chop involved. The broth is dark and sweet. The noodles are perfect. The tops old auntie sitting next to Alison burps all cute and lady-like. If Brad and Angelina can adopt overseas kids can we adopt overseas old ladies?
没有比汤面更好的早餐了,特别是当里面还有一块猪排的时候。这个汤是深的,带点甜味。面条简直绝了。那个坐在 Alison旁边的阿姨,很女孩子样的打嗝,好可爱。如果Brad和Angelina可以领养外国小孩,我们可以领养这个阿姨吗?



As we eat a production line appears out of nowhere behind us.
在我们吃的时候一条生产线悄无声息的在我们背后出现了。



A hundred or so lunchboxes are being made up. We see folks eating these everywhere.
在制作上百个饭盒。我们看到到处都有人吃这样的盒饭。



For breakfast the next day we pick from the bainmarie of love. Chopped tofu, pickled cabbage, slow stewed five spice pork, pork schnitzel and a soy egg.
第二天的早饭我们又沉浸在爱中了。切片豆腐,酸白菜,五香猪肉,猪排和一个卤蛋。



Much the same selections only add an egg for a breakfasty touch. The stewed spare rib added a spare tyre.
As we eat all restaurant activity suddenly ceases and all eyes are on the TV. Howls of laughter erupt as the 'Good Morning Shanghai' type show plays the 'ultimate dog tease' Youtube clip. Some things are universal.
这份基本相同,只是为了早餐的感觉加了一个鸡蛋。一个大仔排给我的腰围又增加了一圈。
在我们吃饭的时候,突然所有的活动都停止了,所有人都在看电视。在“上海早晨”播放youtube“终极狗狗调戏法”的时候,一阵阵的笑声响起。一些事情是全球通用的。




We hit street food gold.
我们找到了路边小吃之王。



Google tells us the lady is making a Taiwanese pancake. A large freshly cooked savoury crepe with a splash of egg and (hoisin?) sauce and filled with a fried bread stick, herbs and luncheon meat sausage.
谷歌告诉我们这个妇女在做台湾煎饼。一个很大的现做咸薄饼加一个鸡蛋和海鲜(?)酱,加上一个炸过的饼,香菜和午餐肉。
原创翻译:龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.com 翻译:xml289 转载请注明出处


It's all rolled up into one big pile of starch, fat and carbs.
卷起来的一个淀粉,脂肪和碳水化合物的组合。



It's not art but my god it's delicious on a cold Shanghai morning. Sydneysiders can find these rolls at Red Charcoal BBQ in the Eating World Food Court.
这不是什么艺术品但是天阿,在一个上海清冷的早晨,好吃极了。悉尼人可以在食府美食苑的大堡礁烧烤找到这样的煎饼。



We'd read that Shanghai is no good for walking, which is our next obsession after food. Shanghai is brilliant for walking, especially in late December when it's quite chilly but pleasant, as long as you're rugged up. The main threat is crossing the road. There's all manner of vehicles, from Mercs and Audis to scooters held together with sticky tape. A green man at a pedestrian crossing simply means it's time to play chicken. We much prefer the Vietnamese style of crossing the road - just walk slowly and the traffic flows around you.
我们读到上海不适合散步,这是我们排在吃之后的第二大爱好。实际上,上海超级适合散步的,特别是在12月底的时候,当天气有点微凉但还宜人,只要你包紧了。最主要的危险是过马路。车开成什么样的都有,从奔驰到奥迪到用胶带绑的小摩托。在路口一个行走的小绿人告诉你现在可以冲了。我们更加喜欢越南过马路的风格,只要慢慢的走,各种车辆会在你身边慢慢过。




Random fun looking Shanghai eat street.
随机照的有趣的上海餐馆街。



This fine hound stopped chewing his bone to come and say hello, what a gent.
这个猎犬停下舔噬自己,过来跟我们打招呼,真是个绅士。



We find an open air wet market on Taiwan Road, a few roads up parallel to Nanjing Rd, and far more fun than endless Gucci stores.
我们找到个台湾路上的菜市场,在南京路平行过去几条街,一个比只有看不见尽头的Gucci商店更加有趣的地方。



Man that bird looks so good but there's no room in the tum.
老兄,那只鸡看上去超级好吃,可是我胃里已经没有空间了。



Smooth bakery operator.
祥和的烘烤店老板。



Crispy deep fried cake with a sweet filling, possibly sweet potato. Looks good but the plain cake was better.
脆脆的油炸饼带甜甜的馅,可能是甜薯。看起来不错但是普通的饼更好吃。




Is that a bear or a dog? Alison stupidly tried to pat him and nearly lost an arm.
这是只熊还是狗?Alison愚蠢 的想去摸摸它,差点被咬掉一只手臂。



Soy milk and bread stick shop.
豆浆和油条店。



Random hole in the wall joint.
随机的街边小店。



A bit different to your Aussie style Chinese restaurant.
和一般澳大利亚风格的中国餐馆有点不同。



Chinese takeaway. Man we wish we had a look in those pots.
中式外卖。老兄,我希望我们能瞧瞧里面装了什么。



Wedding photos taken on the Bund. She must have been freezing. For a cracker post on getting your wedding photos done Asian style check this post on The City That Never Sleeps.
外滩上的婚礼照。她一定冻死了。想读关于亚洲风格的婚礼照片的相关内容吗?点击“不夜城”这个博文。



Pussycat with multi-coloured eyes. He and his gang ran the Pudong riverfront.
有不同颜色眼睛的猫。它和它的帮会统领黄浦江。



View of Shanghai from the 88th floor on some finance building, the Jin Mao Tower. Shanghai just goes on forever. Sydney is just a country town. It's freaky.
上海经贸大厦88层的景色,上海无边无际。悉尼就像个小镇。真恐怖。



But not half as freaky down 88 floors down the middle of the building, only a sheet of glass between Shawn and a Luke Skywalker fall.
但是比起从88层楼的中间往下看,那点惊慌也不算什么了。只有一层玻璃在Shawn和自由坠落的天行者卢克(《星球大战》的角色之一)之间。



One block from the high-falutin' commercial district we find this low-falutin' restaurant for lunch.
在离高档商业区一个街道的地方,我们找到这家低档的餐馆吃午饭。



The joy of holidays - beer at lunch. Much of the Chinese beer we found was mid strength to light. The beer is light in density and is perfect for eating with. Notice the plastic cover on the table.. When we leave the boss lady simply pulls off a layer of plastic leaving a new fresh layer underneath.
度假的快乐所在——中午喝啤酒。我们找到的大部分中国啤酒味道都是中等偏淡的。这个啤酒很清淡,很适合吃饭时喝。注意桌子上的塑料布。当我们离开时,老板娘就会把它收了,露出下面新的一层塑料布。




The staff speak not a word of English and we speak even less Chinese. We order by pointing at what other folks are eating and smiling like idiots. We get a huge bowl of soup packed with chili and Schezuan peppers.
服务生一句英文都不会说,我们更加不会中文。我们通过指别人在吃的菜加拼命傻笑来点菜。我们点了一大盆加满了四川辣椒的东西。



The broth blew our heads off but the fish is divine, having soaked in the flavour of the broth but without getting too chili hot. We noticed other folks had removed a lot of the fiery ingredients from the soup and dumped them on a sideplate. The kind waitress lady did the same for us.
这汤快要了我们的命,但是鱼肉非常好吃,在充满风味的汤中浸泡但又不会太辣。我们注意到其他人把汤里的很多辣椒都捞出来了,放在侧碟子里。服务生小姐也帮我们这么做了。




Egg and garlic shoot stirfry, this was a simple blend of flavours that had some special flavour magic happening. It was the veggie dishes that really blew our minds in China. This would have cost around a dollar.
鸡蛋炒蒜苗,这只是简单一个组合但是确有种魔术般的味道。在中国,这里的蔬菜将我们征服了。这只要1澳元。



Our fellow diners and the boss lady wondering why the idiot tourist is taking a photo of them.
食客和老板娘都在想为什么这几个傻游客要拍他们的照片。



Five star awesomeness.
五星级的水准。




Alison finds a strawberry lady on the street. Dig the old fashioned weights. The strawberries were incredible, as was much of the fruit we had in China.
Alison找到一个在街边卖草莓的女士 。用古老的称。这里的草莓太好吃了,其他在中国吃的水果也是一样。



Din dins time. We spy this fellow finely slicing meat out the front of a restaurant. We have to try this, whatever the hell it is.
晚餐时间。我们偷偷观察这个男人在一家餐馆的门前细细地切肉。我们一定要试试这家,不管它卖什么。



Downstairs is pretty quiet but we were shunted upstairs where it's party time.
楼下很安静。但是我们被请到了喧闹的楼上。



We order by using the point'n'pray method and receive a huge hotpot filled with big chunks of lamb on the bone, sliced meat, tofu and veggies. The broth was delicious and not spicy for a change, with flavours of star anise and pepper。
我们通过随便指加祈祷的方式点菜,然后我们收到了一份超大的砂锅里面有大块的羊肉,肉片,豆腐和蔬菜。汤很好喝,不辣,有八角和香料的味道。



Somehow we ordered a bunch of extra meat, greens, tofu skins and a beer. We thought we made pigs of ourselves but the locals shamed us. Businessmen in suits, lovey-dovey couples on dates, and bunches of blokey blokes ate continuously from the time we entered to the time we left. We don't know where it all went.
不知为何我们还点了一堆的额外的肉,菜,豆腐皮和啤酒。我们觉得我们肯定吃成猪了但是当地人让我们无地自容。穿着西装的上班族,来约会的情侣,一堆年轻人从我们进来到我们离开都在不停的吃。我们都不知道那些食物都去哪了。



The hot pot was full of lovely big hunks of lamb on the bone. It took a good hour to work our way through it. There's nothing like a big protein hit to make one feel at home thousands of miles away.
砂锅里面有很多的大块羊肉。花了好长的时间去啃它们。没什么比一大块的蛋白质更让你在千里之外感到轻松自在了。



MissPiggyJan 18, 2012 04:04 PM
"Point & Pray". You guys are so brave! And yay to your first meal being food on sticks...in bread! Noice work.
“乱指然后祈祷”。你们太勇敢了!而且你们第一餐是带饼的串烧。干的好。

Mary @ beyondjellyJan 18, 2012 07:14 PM
So so jealous! I would love to food-explore Shanghai. One day!
太嫉妒了!我希望我也能吃遍上海。未来某一天!

MatthewqfJan 18, 2012 09:11 PM
What a fantastic piece! My own experiences of China we on a 4 star tour, great food, but a little to westernised and same same same after a few days, cant wait to go back and eat YOUR way!
写得太好了!我们4星级的中国之旅感觉是食物不错,但是有点西化而且几天之后发现天天吃的都一样。迫不及待有一天再去一次,用你的方法来吃!

AnonymousJan 18, 2012 11:05 PM
I would love to travel with you two..you are really adventurous with your food! The last time we went to Asia, we hesitated between going to Shanghai and Kyoto/Osaka. We ended up picking Japan and absolutely loved it but looking at your report, I am pretty sure we wouldn't have been disappointed either way. Can't wait to make it to Shanghai now!
我好想和你们俩一起旅行。。。你们对食物真有冒险精神!上一次我们去亚洲,我们在去上海还是东京/大阪之间犹豫。我们最后选择了日本。我们很喜欢我们的旅程。但是在看了你的博文之后,我坚信我们当时不管选哪里都不会失望的。等不及想去上海了!

LolaJan 19, 2012 02:20 AM
You guys stayed really close to where I live in Shanghai. I miss my scallion cake street vendor, salty fried pancake + egg on top = best breakfast food in the world.
你们住的离我在上海时住的地方很近。我怀念我的葱油饼小摊,咸饼+蛋=世界上最好的早餐。

ShawnJan 19, 2012 02:26 AM
Wow - it's a lovely part of Shanghai, what a great place to live!
哇!这块的上海让人喜爱,真是个居住的好地方!

AnonymousJan 19, 2012 03:57 AM
The spicy fish dish is called "water boiled fish" (a bit of a deceptive name..) and is a Sichuan specialty
那个辣的鱼叫做“水煮鱼”(一个很直白的名字。。)是四川名菜。


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